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| "I couldn’t see myself not climbing. I’d be really unhappy if I weren’t able to go outside, visit different environments and see different cultures.” |
Lisa Rands '99, Geology
World-Class Boulderer
Every so often, an athlete comes
along who excels at a chosen sport
from the get-go. Such is Lisa Rands.
Rands ’99 is a world-class
boulderer, a sport akin to rock climbing.
In the five years she’s been competing
professionally, Rands has been ranked
No. 1 in the world (2002), was the
first American to win the coveted
international World Cup, and has been
ranked No. 1 in the United States four
times (2000-03). At age 29, and with
nearly two dozen victories under her
belt, there’s clearly much more to come.
Born and reared in Claremont,
Rands began bouldering after high
school. She enrolled at Cal Poly
Pomona in 1995 and took up the sport
primarily to keep in shape.
“I realized I could climb and train
for power to stay in shape for bouldering,
but I didn’t have to train for endurance— which is what’s needed for route
climbing,” says Rands, who lives and
trains in bouldering paradise Bishop.
Popularized in the 1990s,
bouldering is largely a technique sport
that demands mental toughness and
power. Indoor competition involves a
large, freestanding artificial rock that
athletes maneuver around to solve
predefined “problems,” and grading
is based on difficulty. Climbers, using
only special shoes and a foam crash
pad, rarely ascend more than 25 feet.
Outdoor climbing also is popular, though is not done competitively.
In 2002 Rands won her first
World Cup in Lecco, Italy, and the
2002 Open des Ecrins, at L’Argentière
La Bessé, France, finishing her first
year of international competition
ranked No. 1. She also has won the
2003 Phoenix Bouldering Contest,
the world’s largest bouldering
competition.
A geology graduate, Rands credits
her Cal Poly Pomona experience
with giving her the toughness and
determination to succeed, as well as
cementing her interest in the outdoors
and the environment around her.
“It is nice to go
outside and know what
you’re climbing on,
to be able to identify
mineralogy and rock
type,” says Rands,
whose husband, Wills,
is her coach. “It’s
definitely given me
an appreciation for
different rock types
and styles and an
understanding of why
a rock feels a certain
way in different parts
of the world. It’s nice
to think you have the
tools to make different
geologic interpretations.”
While successful competitively,
Rands also enjoys outdoor climbing.
“There’s a whole world of climbing
outside of competition. As I’ve stepped
away from competition and started
focusing more on outdoor climbing, I’ve
come to realize how many boulderers
are not involved in competition at all.
They really look at your achievements
outside for inspiration.”
As age 30 approaches, Rands
looks forward to perhaps another
10 years of competitive bouldering.
Beyond that, she plans to lecture,
teach, work as a guide — and in some
way climb. In her mind, Rands will
always climb.
“I couldn’t see myself not
climbing,” she said. “I’d be really
unhappy if I weren’t able to go outside,
visit different environments and see
different cultures. Through bouldering,
I’ve had this amazing opportunity
to see places that most people can
only read about. For me, that’s what
bouldering is all about.”
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